In an alley off the main drag in Insadong lies a little makkoli and mackerel place that tells of an edgier, less cleaned-up Korea. The cement walls are covered in graffiti—an out-of-the-way corner pronounces “Kim Jung Il Rocks” while the more typical messages are lovers’ promises and university pride. Low ceilings, metal bowls of creamy rice wine, and hot, grilled fish hint of former, more authentic days.

According to the hospitable owner, Kim Ae-cha, her place is a local haunt for all kinds of people including painters, film directors, artists, and even famous actors like Ahn, Jae-hwan, whom she saw shortly before his unfortunate death. It has also appeared in a couple of films: Virgin Stripped Bare by her Bachelors by Hong, Sang-soo, which is considered a masterpiece, and Mother Never Dies by Ha, Myeong-joong.

Most people call it Pimatgol (little alley), but it has never had an official name and the owner wants to keep it that way. At least one customer, though, has called it Wasadeung, meaning “gas light” and referring to the title of a Korean poem that laments the isolation and anxiety of modern life. A poignant line translates something like “The highrises are lined up like pale tombstones soaked in dusk.”

Wasadeung is a bit of warmth in the midst of the endless change of modernization and materialism in Seoul. While I cannot go down the street in my own Wangsimni neighborhood without noticing the Baskin Robbins’ has shuffled down a couple of stores, or
what used to be a kimbap place now sells discount makeup and shampoo (with as much noise as the man on the microphone can muster), the mackerel house has been around for 51 years. More over, with the strict laws about reconstruction in that area, we can
be sure that there will be no Buy the Way or KFC to pop up and take its place.

When coming from Jonggak station, head to Insadong and take a left immediately after the 7/11. Take the next left around the corner and go to the nondescript, white building with a cement patio in front. Go inside and feel an old, familiar light. uhlenhopp@gmail.com.

This Article originally appeared on the 2009 April issue of the Eloquence magazine.
Written By Esther Uhlenhopp / Photos by Albert Koh

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